Join Philippe Richen and I on Saturday for a hike to 7 Palms to do some fly fishing for shad. This is the first of a series (we hope) of hikes that the Orlando Kayak Fishing Community and the Shad on the Fly group will be co-hosting together this season.
We are limiting this hike to a maximum of 10 people (in addition to Philippe and I.) First to mark themselves as Going in the Facebook event, first served.
We will meet at the Canaveral Marshes Trailhead at 8:00am and make a leisurely hour long 2.5 mile walk to the river. Most of this is on an easy service road that is generally dry (as long as we have not had significant rain,) but as we approach the river, there can be some mud and water to cross to get to the 7 Palms shelter. From there we have access to quite a bit of shoreline on a section of the St. Johns River where shad congregate, and we will spend the day fishing until late afternoon, then hike back to the trailhead before dark.
To join us you will need: Waders, sunscreen, a hat, protective but comfortable clothing depending on weather and temperature, first-aid kit, water/ beverages, lunch, snacks, fly rod and shad flies.
The fee: shad conversation during the walk & posting great pictures and reports on the Group pages.
Disclaimer: This is a wilderness area where you can expect to see, and potentially fish along side of alligators. In addition there can be snakes, feral pigs, cattle and other wildlife in this area. Cooler temperatures usually minimize our chance of an encounter, however they may occur. This hike is being offered “as is” and if you sign up, you agree that you recognize the inherent risk potentially involved and are responsible for your own actions & safety. You also agree to practice catch & release, leave nature as is, and to pack out what you pack in.
Last Saturday I decided I wanted to do some scouting around 7 Palms, primarily to see what the conditions were like in anticipation of possibly coordinating a hike in with the ShadontheFly and Orlando Kayak Fishing Club Facebook groups. Rather than run solo, I decided to check with Ray to see if he was available, and he was happy to join me.
I picked up Ray around 9:00am and after a quick stop for gas and provisions, we made the 45 minute drive out to Tosohatchee. We were on the water around 10:30 and were quickly greeted with overcast skies and drizzly rain.
We made the run down to 7 Palms in 15-20 minutes where a couple of airboats had parked early, in spite of the rain. We gave them wide berth and began fishing where the channel splits in two, one side headed towards Mud Lake, and one side becoming the slough that heads to Paw Paw Mound.
We found plenty of activity in this area and the turns downstream on the slough, but getting them to bite was a different story. It was clearly shad rolling, and at times, they were literally rolling within rod’s length from your feet.
I had a heavy tip attached to my line from fishing with Ron downstream earlier in the week, which I quickly shifted to an intermediate tip and a size 10 beadchain Kip Tailed Clouser, and just as quickly switched to a floating tip with an unweighted size 10 Gambusia Hair Wing pattern. After working the area upstream 5 steps at a time, and Ray working downstream, we never managed shad, but picked up several bluegill and shellcrackers along the way.
Of important note, while there were indeed good numbers of fish around 7 Palms, there was also still quite a bit of water in between where the trail in to the area ends, and the shelter. What was not wet, was still very mucky as it had not had much time to dry out. While we have hiked in in similar conditions before, the trek from the trail to the shelter was mucky enough to be shin deep in areas, pulling at your boots, and enough to cause some pretty significant soreness behind the knees the next day caused by slogging and twisting your way through it. I opted to not organize a hike this week, but potentially may do so next week depending on the conditions and work schedule. Also, the alligators were much more active than last trip with the warmer temps, and with the overcast sky, seemed to prefer being in the water over being on bank. I counted four total in the water around us while we fished.
We decided to motor downstream for a bit and fished a couple of bends that produce regularly, and were greeted with more rain and a muddy landing, making it a bit of a struggle to get up the slippery cut bank. Again there were plenty of fish, but we could not buy a bite. Ray walked down another turn, and his effort paid off. He was the winner of the day, catching his personal best!
Not soon after Ray caught this fish, I gave up on the turn upstream, and decided to pull the canoe down to a sandier landing. About that time, another shad addict stopped by for a visit, and Ray and I enjoyed a beer and a snack and talked all things shad with the master himself.
After a frosty refreshment and some good conversation, we all made our way back upstream, some of us faster than others. The swift current and an airboat diversion made our trek more “interesting,” but we did manage to get some fishing in together.
Another note about this section of river accessible from Tosohatchee is that there is significant airboat traffic, and unlike around C.S. Lee and the Econ, they do NOT slow down for small vessels. I have even had a couple buzz us 10 feet from shore while unloading the canoe at the launch. While my little boat does alright dealing with the wake of a regular boat/ airboat (although it can get a little dicey stretched to the weight limit with two aboard,) I would not want to take on the wake that the big tour boats from Midway create with a full load of tourists. If you are in a small boat, be extra careful, and do everything you can to get out of their way. Even then, they may play chicken with you. Just ask Ray! 🙂
Mark caught the only shad, and as the sun was getting low, Ray and I decided to call it a day and head back to the launch before it got too dark. Evidently it is a 3rd degree felony to be on those dirt roads after dark, according to some regulars that had received a warning from FWC in the past.
It is few and far between that I take any time on a Sunday nowadays to fish, but here and there I do make exceptions. This past Sunday was one rare instance where I did so. My wife decided to take my two girls over to her mom’s house, as they all had MLK day off, making for a nice 3 day getaway. I had to work, so I stayed back and decided to do back to back days on the water.
After a successful day at Tosohatchee on Saturday, I decided to mix it up and put in at C.S. Lee, but rather than fishing the regular spots which have been slow this year, I decided to make a run up the Econlockhatchee to see if I could double down on fishing spots earlier than normal in the season, and catch some more fish.
Some of you that know me, may have heard me in past years talk about wanting to fish a couple of turns upstream of the Yarborough Shelter on the Econ. It looks fishy on the maps to my eyes, and is sort of out in “no man’s land,” a shallow 7.5 mile upstream run by boat from C.S. Lee, or about a 4.5 mile downhill run from Snowhill, where technically I believe you can’t run gas motors, even though Ray and I have held on for dear life as multiple jetskis swamped us.
This is a section of the river that may be accessible to an adventurer willing to hike in from Brumley Road, but is well past where the standard trail designated by white blazes ends. I have targeted this section by foot in past outings, but found fish downstream that kept me occupied, and in 2-3 planned attempts, have never even started a real effort to actually get there. I decided this was my target (once again,) but because the water level on the Econ was still a tad high, and because I left the canoe on the racks and my gear in the Jeep the night before, I decided to motor in from C.S. Lee rather than hike.
Similar to Saturday, a chilly morning on Sunday meant I dragged my feet, enjoyed a couple of coffees at home and then made my way to the launch a little later. After talking to a nice gentleman in the parking lot, who won a boat in the shad derby of ’86, and was kind enough to give me a couple shad darts in the winning dressing named Potato Bug, I was on the water by 11am.
Since I was going the distance in a canoe with a 2.5hp outboard, I decided I wanted to keep some detailed notes along the way. Here they are for future reference…
Launch from C.S. Lee
Mouth of Econ
Yellow/ White Trail Marker
High Bank Pool
1:25 min (stopped to refill gas)
Faster by foot? Mmmmhmmm.
Needless to say, it was a haul, but a really enjoyable ride. I saw egrets, herons, hawks, bald eagles, ducks, and cormorants, plus a couple of deer and some turkeys up on the banks. When I finally made it to my target turns, I found the water to be big, and still just a tad high to really see any noticeable current coming in and out of the turns, plus it was silty, and that is not good. I fished it as best I could, methodically with the ultralight. I found no shad. I might consider it again, but a little later in the season next time. That said, the run between Yarborough and this spot was already shallow, so by foot may be optimal.
I ran down to the Wives’ Pool, a place I know well and have fished thoroughly over the years. I picked apart the water, with both the switch rod, and the ultralight and found no shad. Honestly, it was not that surprising, as this was at least two weeks earlier than any of us had traditionally fished it, but, it was a worth a shot, particularly since the reports at C.S. Lee have been dismal.
I did not fish the Lilly Pool on the way back downstream. First, there were folks camping on the high bluff there, with a couple of boats in the water. They were lighting a fire and obviously preparing for dinner. I wasn’t looking for an audience, nor were they. Second, the Lilly Pool, to me, is somewhat of an anomaly. For years I never caught fish there, and then had a couple of years where it turned on. In my experience though, if the Wives have not found fish, then rest assured, the Lillies were likely still waiting too.
I enjoyed a cigar on the way back down river, shaving about 10 minutes off the return trip with the downstream current, and fished the east bank at the mouth of the Econ. The water is still above the banks about ankle to shin deep. Again I did not catch shad, but caught about a dozen nice sized crappie. If you are going to C.S. Lee this year, bring a cooler and limit out on them. You can keep 25 of them per angler, per day.
Last Saturday I decided to do something I have not done before, fish from Tosohatchee early in the season. Last year I learned the area downstream pretty well after adding a motored canoe to the fleet. However, the low water last year prevented me from checking out some of the areas well upstream of the launch, and to that end I decided to launch from the power lines and head upstream to where the east and west channels meet.
A cold snap the night before meant I was not in any hurry in the morning, and I hit the water around noon. Unfortunately that also allowed the wind to come up to full speed before even casting a line, and what was forecasted as 10-15 mph wind with 20mph gusts, was actually 15-20 mph with 30 mph gusts (and plenty of them!)
After a short motor, I made it to where the two channels converge and found a spit of land that was just barely noticeable because the tips of grass were just peeking out of the water. With the S.R. 50 gage at 5.3 feet, the water is still a foot or so high for optimal wading and walk-ins, but I managed. With the wind in my face I opted to use the ultralight rather than the switch rod, and fished the area very thoroughly with a Hardcore Shad Spoon. While there was a ton of current, and decent depth, I did not find shad in this spot.
I decided I wanted to continue upstream and set sail, quite literally, to my next intended spot. However, with the water up I found it difficult to find the channel, and kept hitting bottom with the motor, eventually having to pull it up and paddle… well, try to paddle. What I learned was, a square stern canoe with 80 pounds of ballast up on the bow to keep the nose down, tracks like total crap, and is nearly impossible for me to turn to get the bow upwind by myself in 30 mph wind. The rodeo that proceeded would probably have caused more than a chuckle if I would have had an audience, and after a comedy of laughter mixed with expletives, I gave up the effort to make it upstream, and got out and walked the boat using the painter line back downstream to the east channel.
In hindsight, I guess I could have dumped the ballast bags and rowed on my knees from the center of the boat to make it upstream, but at the end of the day, 30 mph wind just isn’t that fun to paddle in either way. Instead, I motored just downstream to a spit of exposed cut bank on the north side of the west channel, that when the water is lower, splits the channels in two. Todd and I fished from the same place last year and there is significant current and depth in this area. With the water high, wading was a challenge but doable. While Todd and I had no luck from this spot last year, this is where I picked up my first fish of the season, and a couple more.
I generally would not leave fish to find fish, but I noticed a considerable amount of bird activity a turn or so downstream and decided to investigate. My interest was rewarded and I not only found busy birds, but shad feeding on the top of the water column. I removed the T8 tip I was using, opting instead for an intermediate, and tied on a Gambusia Hair Wing Fly (instructional video to come) and proceeded to pick up several nice shad, including nice big fat hens. The activity was solid enough that I was able to test out the double version of the Gambusia fly, along with a single trailing behind it, and caught fish alternating back to front, and even managed to hook two very nice fish at the same time. What a ride that was, as both fish cartwheeled over each other until one popped off!
Generally I like to catch a few fish and then move on, always careful not to pound pools to death. The fish are here to spawn, and we should respect that, particularly this early in the season. However, I was pretty disgusted to see 4-5 guys cast netting just downstream, and while they were respectful of my space (for the most part,) they were keeping shad, and it was clear that they were just waiting for me to move, so they could pull every fish they could out of there. On this day, I spent the better part of two hours in the same spot, until the bite finally turned off, in the hopes that maybe at least some of the fish I caught, decided to head upstream to get away from me, and by proxy, the cast netters. At the end of the day, these guys were not doing anything illegal, and perhaps were just trying to feed their families, but at any rate, I just found it to be incredibly unsporting, and disrespectful to a fishery that I love. Add to that, information that came to me after the fact, with a conversation with a regular pack at the parking spot, that these very characters have been seen feeding alligators in the past, and my anger level increased even further. Feeding alligators IS illegal!
As the sun hung low in the sky, and the airboat noise finally way out in the distance, I decided to visit the well known airboat stop one turn downstream of the powerlines known as Catfish Hotel. Most days it is full of folks drinking beer and barbequing, but late in the day when they head back to the boat ramp, its worth trying. While the current is not as swift on this turn, there is nice depth, and acceleration coming in and out of the pool. I was happy to find good numbers of fish here as well, and caught my fill until just before dark. Tosohatchee closes at dark, and I would say I pushed it to the very end, getting the boat loaded and making my way down that long dirt road, headlights on. It was a great day on the water on a beautiful section of the St. Johns River.
Many thanks to Ron Flak for inviting me to fish with him today! We fished around Cameron Wight and upstream of Mullet Lake. The fishing was slow but we still managed crappie, bluegill, and 2 hickory shad (and lost one more.) Great weather and great company!