Just a quick report. After recovering from Covid-19, I was ready to finally start my season today. I met up with Todd at 10am at CS Lee. When we arrived the weather was still in the mid 40’s and the wind was brisk. Thankfully I had packed an Under Armor thermal layer and had a wind breaker in the dry bag, as I had opted not to grab a jacket on the way out.
We packed the boat and set out to do some fishing, stopping at the creek mouths first. With the gage at 3.5 feet, the west bank is still partially submerged, but wadable ankle to thigh high. The current was booking, still at around 3000cfs, and a 10 foot T3 tip and hourglass eye fly was not enough to bounce bottom here. Todd fished a T8 tip and felt like he was getting down, but neither of us hooked shad. After I caught a little red belly, we decided to move upstream to the mouth of the Econ.
The east bank at the mouth is wadable shin to waist high, which made things chilly. Add to that a good 10-12 northwest wind, and the chop was stacking up a good foot. Even with the backup, the current still warranted T8’s and heavy flies. I switched tips and worked the likely areas without a hookup. Todd on the other hand found the crappie hole, and pulled numerous slabs out on a pink fly. These were some of the biggest crappie we had seen in this section of river in a good while.
Eventually, the cold and wind in our face took its toll and we decided to poke around on the west bank, which was again wadable shin to waist high, but found no takers.
After a quick stop at a creek mouth that Todd likes that can produce fish on days where they are warming up in the shallow water, on a whim, we decided to run down to the big turn downstream of the Jolly Gator, as it had been several years since either of us had fished it. I recalled catching shad there early in the season, but it was always a gamble, and a bit more of a commitment in the kayaks. Under motor, it is a quick run downstream and back up if there was no action.
When we arrived, we saw more activity than anywhere else on the river all day. Birds were diving at the confluence of the slough and main channel coming out of the turn, and we did see some surface activity, but the water level on the west bank was still pretty deep, and made reaching the main water of interest difficult, even with the switch rods. If you are going out by boat this week, you may want to take a look and anchor up just outside the main current.
We decided to call it a day around 3:00. There were plenty of nice crappie to be had today, and had we really focused on them, we probably could have filled a nice sized cooler. They definitely liked the pink or orange flies, and were hanging in holes or just outside the main current. However, we are shad fanatics, and nothing else quite quenches the thirst… except maybe a cold beer! 🙂
It seems like the middle of March just snuck up on me. As the temperatures have warmed rapidly and the chance of rain dropped in to the single digits, the reality starts to set in that yet another shad run is coming to an end.
Early in the season, it looked like we would have an amazing run for spots like CS Lee, Hatbill, and beyond, with reports of fish being caught in Shad Alley in early December and nice sized fish already being caught at CS Lee late in December. Heck I even caught a couple before Christmas, which is a rarity, as in recent years I generally force myself to wait until after Christmas before wetting a line. However, like many I struggled to locate fish in the typical spots upstream of Lake Harney. This all but forced me to change focus, and make this a season of exploration and study.
So what made this shad run a struggle when everything seemed to be lining up so perfectly, so early? As I mentioned in a prior post, I think a lot of this just had to do with water levels and timing. While it felt like conditions were coming together perfectly, upon closer inspection, we actually had lower water this summer coming in to fall. Less water during summer and fall meant less time for minnows and grass shrimp to build up on the flooded pastures, and what bait was there, was swept off in to the channel early as the water receded within its banks for the first time during this season which was in late November/ early December. I generally consider the window of time between 3.0ft- 2.5ft on the USGS 02234000 gauge to be what Mark Benson refers to as the “squeegee,” that brings all that bait in to the main channel near CS Lee, and will become the target I more specifically track in future years.
After the early squeegee, we then got a pretty decent amount of rain in late December through early January that bumped water flow up considerably and likely pushed what little food may not have already been consumed, back outside of the banks. This set of conditions is likely what caused the typical December wave of fish to just continue upstream rather than congregate and feed in this section of river. As mentioned in an earlier post, good numbers of fish were being caught well upstream of SR 50 (and beyond) in November and December. Of course while that may have been the case, the conditions were not quite favorable for fishing for them outside of the boat, something that is an important consideration for those of us fishing by canoe or kayak. While I am still getting comfortable with the area of river south of SR 50, somewhere between 5.0ft- 4.5ft on the USGS 02232500 gauge is when I will consider making my way out there to do some bank fishing.
As others began to hang it up and call it an early season, I decided to slow down and focus less on writing and more on exploring new sections of the river. While I did plenty of fishing, I made a conscious effort to be more observant of flow in different areas, and note details like confluences, structure (both onshore and in-water,) and water features like seams, lines, and eddies. To help expand my confidence in my new boat, and also my range and knowledge of different areas shad may congregate year to year in different conditions, on two back to back Saturdays, I decided to drop the canoe in at the Power Lines at Tosohatchee and motor downstream towards 7 Palms and beyond. This is something I had considered doing by kayak in prior years, but the large alligator population and stiff current eventually swayed me from doing it.
The first outing was on February 22 with Todd. We made our way downstream of 7 Palms to a pool where we found good current and fish active on the surface. Here we found floating lines and light flies to be more successful than the usual sink tips and weighted flies we typically catch fish with downstream. We both caught several fish from the first pool, and then decided to motor back upstream to 7 Palms where we would spend the majority of the rest of the day, before fishing each interesting turn while heading back to the launch. Unfortunately plans changed when mysteriously, Todd broke the tip on his switch rod in a freak accident as we loaded up.
While we did stop at 7 Palms and fished with my switch and spinning rod, we quickly decided to motor back to the launch to grab Todd’s spare single hand rod from his car and then try upstream of the launch. Unfortunately we found the water upstream to already be too shallow to motor, even in the shallow draft canoe, and being that Todd had to be off the water at 3:00, decided not to park and hike or portage the boat upstream to the deeper pool we had hoped to hit. We did fish the turns closest to the launch, which are also accessible by foot but we did not find shad there. While we had some issues, overall this trip was a success, where fishing a new area of the river gave me the confidence to come back again, and explore further.
Fast forward to February 29 and Ray and I launched the canoe from Power Lines in to a stiff 20-25 mph NW wind, meaning we would be running downstream through some pretty good white caps. Thankfully while I was outfitting my canoe, John Hawko had warned me about his experience almost sinking a motored canoe while running in similar conditions, so I decided to stop by the time we got to 7 Palms to see how much water we had taken on while underway. It was a good 5-6 inches in about 20 minutes of motoring.
We bailed out the water and set off downstream to the pool Todd and I had fished the week prior. Again, we found fish active up top, and I fished a Fry Fly while Ray threw a small EP Minnow. We both caught several fish including Ray’s first fish (not just shad) on the switch rod!
Rather than beat up the pool we decided to keep on moving and exploring. After a short run, we found another nice pool where we both caught several more fish and where I believe both of us hit double digits for the day. There were so many fish stacked up on a seam leading in to the pool, that Ray was quite literally high sticking them almost as if he was euro-nymphing out west.
The highlight of the afternoon for me was trying to move the canoe solo back upstream (so we didn’t have to walk so far to get beers of course,) and because the bow of the canoe was up in the air two feet due to my rear-heavy ballast (i.e. @ss,) the wind blew me all over the pool… eventually having to pull the motor, grab the paddle (all the while cracking up,) and paddle while kneeling mid stern. As we made our way back upstream to the launch, we saw fish active up top on nearly every turn, and even the straight away between Catfish Hotel and the Power Lines. It was a fun day on the water for sure, and yet another successful trip!
I finished the season with a walk upstream from Snowhill last Saturday with my wife and two daughters. While I did bring rods, the primary goal was a diversion from the coronavirus-forced change in spring break plans we had. While a river hike may not be quite the same as a week stay at Disney’s Fort Wilderness, my girls really enjoyed fishing with their Olaf rod, playing in the creek, and digging in the mud. I enjoyed seeing dozens of cruising shad, large bass, groups of small bass, mudfish, tilapia, armored cats, and CLOUDS of tens of thousands of shad fry making their way downstream. I could not capture a picture of the fry because of the glare, but thankfully Ray and his family visited shortly after, and his daughter Gabby Lopez got this AMAZING picture!!!
I took some shots at cruising shad but did not connect. I did however catch panfish, catfish, and even chain pickerel. I am not sure I have ever seen that many fish/ species on a single day on this section of river.
As next season approaches, I will try to be mindful about posting more regularly. That said, I will likely still focus more on fishing and posting short format posts in the Facebook Group the weekend of a trip, particularly as the group continues to grow, and give myself 3-5 days to post the detailed long format stories here. Until next year…
Last Saturday I decided to put in at Hatbill again for my first solo trip in the new (to me) canoe. I wanted to try a couple of new spots I had not visited by kayak before, primarily the big turns and the T Split upstream of Orange Mound. I have spent a fair amount of time in the section of river downstream of Orange Mound, and feeling relatively confident in running the boat with a buddy, I wanted to do some exploring by myself.
I arrived at Hatbill around 9:00am and was met with a 20-30mph wind… sigh. I quickly loaded up the canoe, and since I was running solo, filled two 30 liter dry bags with water and attached them with carabiners to the lacing at the bow of the boat, and stuffed all the rest of my gear forward as well. This ballast really did a good job of keeping the bow down, offsetting the weight from my big fat butt plus thirty additional pounds of outboard motor. I have a small stool I can use as a “jump seat” to move my weight more towards the center of the boat, but really only needed that in the shallowest of water.
I set off downstream and decided to make my way up to the T Split by way of the secondary Bear Bluff channel. I have never traveled via this channel and was quickly met with shallow water. The initial 1/4 of a mile is so shallow, it required me to pull up the outboard and hop out to pull the canoe with the painter line. Thankfully there was also no sign of alligators in the area, and after a brief walk and a short period of push poling the boat with the paddle, I was able to crank up the motor and make my way upstream.
I arrived at the Bear Bluff Shelter and as I was about to start fishing, I was joined by two airboats that pulled up to the shelter. I decided to yield the spot and head further upstream. While the pool in front of the shelter had decent current at the head and tail, I did not have high hopes for finding shad, figuring the shallow water in the secondary channel had already cut fish off from making their way upstream via this path.
After a short motor, I arrive at the T Split where I found fantastic current at the actual split, and the run upstream of it. I fished both the east and west egress spots of the split and picked up some panfish but no shad. I did work my way up the run a bit, but spotted a couple of gator heads about 50 yards from where I wanted to be, so I decided not to wade any further.
I made my way upstream to the next set of big turns where I found two very nice pools and a nice run between them. Unfortunately with the stiff wind, the current was backed up on the run, making swinging a fly futile. The first pool had a good amount of surface activity just out of comfortable wading reach. Unfortunately I had three very nice sized buddies hanging out closer than I would prefer to wade any further than about knee high. My gut told me there were fish there, but it was not worth a close encounter in the middle of nowhere.
At about 12:30 I decided to make the run down to Orange Mound and have some lunch. Along the way, an airboat came up behind me on a very narrow channel, so I pulled over in the shallows and let him pass. The channel was maybe 30 feet wide.
When I arrived at Orange Mound, there was one other airboat on the beach, and after a friendly greeting by them, I landed my boat well downstream to give them some space. While I had not needed my little “jump seat” for the most part, it made a perfect little place to sit up on the midden, and I enjoyed an ice cold beer, a sandwich and some cashews.
Shortly after finishing my lunch, the airboat took off, so I decided to fish the run and small pool in front of Orange Mound. Again I picked up a few panfish, and about the time I was about to give up and was reeling in line, I saw a swell of maybe 4 or five fish come the surface, one of which took the fly hard and made a fast run straight upstream and then jumped. Unfortunately I lost the fish when it jumped, but it was clearly a nice shad. The experience of multiple fish coming up to surface like that reminded me of fishing upstream of Snowhill Road, where I have seen multiple fish in the clear water peel off from the pod and chase down a fly. With aggressive feeding behavior like that, I expected to catch more fish, but unfortunately after working the area thoroughly at different depths and with different flies, never had another taker.
I made my way downstream towards First Junction by way of the west channel, which I found to be very shallow, even for my boat. Another foot lower on the gauge and I am not sure the outboard will even be worth the trouble around Hatbill. As I approached First Junction, I studied the water for any activity, and after 5-10 minutes of idling, decided to make my way down to the Second Junction by way of the east channel.
Upon arriving, I found the run just upsteam of the junction to be high and dry compared to my last visit. I have caught fish from this very spit of land that narrows the channel in to very fast moving current both at the head and tail of the run. I also like the deep pool just upstream of this spot. However today I found no takers on the run, and while I fished it, a skiff landed at the pool and fished there for around 20 minutes. I did not see them catch anything, so I decided not to bother.
I ran back down the east channel to First Junction where again, I fished the area very thoroughly at different depths with different flies and again found not joy and decided to call it a day near 5:00pm. In all, I covered around eight miles, fishing both new as well as familiar spots and all I can say is, it has been a difficult year. While I enjoyed exploring, and now feel completely comfortable running the new boat alone (which is a win,) I would say I am done with Hatbill for the year. The question is, where to next?
Last Monday I had the opportunity to fish for shad with friend and mentor Captain Mark Benson. For those that may not know Mark, he has been fishing in Central Florida all of his life and has done his fair share of fly fishing all over the world from the Caribbean to New Zealand and back. He is the current Director of Fly Fishing at the Ritz- Carlton Orlando, Grande Lakes where you can find him most days teaching and putting clients on some of the nicest trophy bass around. When he is not at the Ritz, a lot of the time you will find him guiding, fishing, or exploring the St. Johns River.
While Mark has fished in some pretty exotic places for species such as trout, bonefish, and even shark, he is still absolutely passionate about fly fishing for shad on the St. Johns River, and he is not afraid to tell you that the American Shad is still his favorite species. He has spent countless hours studying, stalking, and catching these fish. Add to that a background in biology and a true gift of gab, and there may not be anyone more qualified to help you become a better shad fisherman. I have fished with Mark out at the Ritz-Carlton and even on Andros Island, but had not been able to sync up with him before during a shad season, so I was really looking forward to this trip!
I have been interested in getting out on the water with Mark as he spends a lot of his time upstream of most of the spots I frequent. Outside of a few hikes out to 7 Palms and Tosohatchee, the water upstream of SR50 is foreign to me. Add to that the swift current and large numbers of alligators in the area, I have always been hesitant of paddling this section of river.
We met up at the SR 50 boat ramp around 1:30 where I was told I would need to hand over my phone, and that I would be blindfolded. I was then frisked to make sure I did not have any secondary GPS units on my person and made to spin around 50 times until I was dizzy before setting off on a trip that I can only assume, but not confirm, was upstream. Okay, none of that was true… although there were discussions, and clear rules of engagement were agreed upon. 🙂
In all seriousness, the area upstream of SR 50 is not top secret, in fact Mark often sings its praises during talks and seminars he presents. This is an area of river that receives less pressure, and the shad can be plentiful when the conditions are right, namely around six feet (or more) on the SR 50 gauge coming in to the new year, dropping steadily in to January and February.
This was certainly one of those years, but with the addition of the fact that most of the fall we had pretty low water, and then got a mess of rain in December. This meant less time for minnows and grass shrimp to build up on the flooded pastures and then be swept off in the channel as the water receded. This may be one of the reasons we did not see the shad stall, congregate, and feed in the places that most shad fisherman frequent every year (and yes, they do feed!) Instead, there were reports of fish being caught near SR 520 at the end of October, and while most of us have had dismal days down by CS Lee, Mark has had consistent double digit days since early January fishing upstream of SR 50.
As we made our way upstream through the winding turns in the river, my hesitancy to paddle this section of river was completely confirmed. Folks, this is alligator country, and while I have seen my fair share of gators, I have never seen this level of sheer biomasse in a single trip. I am not exaggerating when I say, I reckon the number to be three to four HUNDRED large sized alligators. Looking at stills on some of the video I shot, I easily counted 42 on one turn alone. We saw this turn after turn after turn. I was blown away, but to Mark, it was just a typical day on this section of river.
While I don’t want to be too specific in this post, I can tell you that Mark and I fished gorgeous areas of river well upstream of 7 Palms, making our way down to that well know section of river, and found fish in all the likely suspects. If you have been considering the 7 Palms hike, now is a good time. Runs with good current, pools with depth and eddies, and water stacking up on cut banks all had shad clearly washing in them, all the way downstream headed towards Paw Paw Mound. While I have not really seen any signs of spawning activity downstream of SR 50 this year, fish were clearly visible in this section of river, which was a very nice change.
My thanks to Mark for the opportunity to fish with him. I enjoyed the fishing, scenery, and company! If you are interested in fishing this or any other section of the St. Johns River, I highly recommend hiring Mark as your guide. He will put you on fish… the rest is up to you!
I am again running two weeks behind posting here, as frankly it is not much fun to sit down and write about slow fishing days, and it has been a tough year so far. Mix that with work, sick kids and then sick parents, and an unexpected kitchen remodel and well… you know. That said, I committed when I started Shad on the Fly to keep honest accounts of my fishing adventures, good, bad, or indifferent.I have post dated this blog entry for my record, and while the fishing was not great, it was a fun day!
I decided to take a half day off on Friday to fish with Todd. With slow fishing both experienced and reported down by CS Lee, we decided to try upstream, and met at Hatbill around 12:30. As we were loading up the gear in to the canoe, I realized in my haste to get everything loaded in and on the Jeep, while also listening to my weekly showcase meeting, I inadvertently forgot to grab a paddle… smh. This is not the first time I have done this either, nor is this the greatest place on earth to be “up sh!t’s creek without a paddle” if something was to go wrong.
After some deliberation and a vocal comment by me that I need to buy one of those little emergency paddles and just keep it in the truck, we decided what the heck… I have a brand new motor that is running well, we should be alright. Todd grabbed a stick so we would at least have something to push off with, and off we went. Oh boy.
As we made our way downstream through the first set of turns with all of the high reeds, we had a close call with a gheenoe that decided to take the inside of a blind turn while I took the outside. Nothing major, the sponsons again did just fine with the wake, but another reminder of how difficult it is to see and be seen in this claustrophobic section of river. I need to get a new flag for this boat.
The water was still a bit high for this section of river with the guage at SR 50 showing around 4.0ft. This can make finding the channel a little challenging in some areas where there are sloughs, creeks, and junctions so we found ourselves in skinny water… you know, where a paddle comes in awfully handy. 8\
It took us about 15 minutes to make it to the first junction where we found great current and fished for about 30-45 minutes, covering the water well with switch rods and a spinning rod and only managed a small panfish.
We decided to make the run down to the second junction by way of the west channel to check things out. The west channel takes longer but it is deeper… you know, where a paddle is less necessary… smh. It took just another 20 or so minutes of motoring to make the trip.
When we arrived, we found even better current, a fair amount of surface activity, as well as a 5 foot section of PVC in the shallow water… a perfect push pole and replacement for the stick Todd donned at launch. We fished for about an hour and found that the surface activity was just crappie, likely in a feeding frenzy as the receding river swept grass shrimp and minnows off the grass. Unfortunately we did not find shad.
We continued motoring downstream, not very far from where the Indian mounds are. While we found decent current and surface activity, we did not find shad. While we there, we could hear an airboat off in the distance really going to town… revving, slowing, revving, slowing. As anyone that frequents the river can attest, the sounds of airboats are common place on the St. Johns. Love it or hate it, it’s just a part of our river culture. I am pretty sure I have said the phrase… “you hear that Todd… that’s the sweet sound of horsepower,” quite literally every time I have been on the river with him since we met. However this was something different enough that it made me stop and study what was going on.
Instead of finding an airboat doing doughnuts or some other BS off in the distance, I noticed an interesting symphony of horsepower, barking, whistling, and hootin’ and hollerin’. At first, I figured they must have been hunting hogs, but then saw what looked to be someone riding a horse way off in the distance. As the airboat continued revving, I soon saw that what was actually going on, was a roundup. The airboat was working in unison with a couple of guys on horseback and a dog or two to get cattle to cross the river. I found it fascinating. I never really considered an airboat to be anything more than an annoying, noisy, utilitarian vessel to navigate otherwise difficult to travel wetlands, and here it was, being used as a versatile tool the same way a cowboy uses a horse. I stand corrected.
On the way back upstream, we chose the west channel again… for obvious reasons, and with the slightly higher water level, found ourselves off the beaten channel path. As we wandered around what seemed like a small pond looking for a cut back to the main river, we spooked what seemed like 50 large bass or gar that gave us serious pause. Note to self, I need to go back there… you know the spot on the map.
The sun was getting low and the water skinny. Thankfully we had our new push pole aboard which made short work of the shallow water we needed to cross to get back to the river. After finding the channel and a brief scare with a motor that would not restart (8|), we made our way back to the launch by dark, questioning where the heck the fish were.
If you have been around a while, you know I have a unique relationship with this section of river around Hatbill. This is yet another feather in that cap. Every trip is an adventure… sometimes, no maybe most times, of my own making. Fish or no fish, I can’t help but smile as I write this, as I am already planning another trip to Hatbill, in to the wild… no one for miles!